DEC Opens Moss Cliff To Climbers

Just in time for the holiday weekend, the state Department of Environmental Conservation is giving rock climbers access again to Moss Cliff, one of the region’s better crags.

Moss Cliff had been closed to avoid disturbance of peregrine falcons during nesting season, but DEC has detected no nesting activity on the cliff this year.

Located in Wilmington Notch,the 400-foot cliff towers over Route 86 and the West Branch of the Ausable River. It’s a landmark to motorists, but climbers know it for its clean rock and tough routes.

Elsewhere, falcon nesting has been confirmed. As a result, Upper Washbowl Cliff remains closed to climbers. DEC also has closed a number of routes in the vicinity of the Nose on the main face of Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain.

In addition, climbers have reported being dive-bombed by falcons in the vicinity of the Diagonal on Wallface Cliff. Although no nest has been found there, DEC is advising climbers to avoid the Diagonal area until further notice.

Following is a list of the closed routes on Poke-o-Moonshine:

• 26 Garter
• 27 Varsity
• 28 Junior Varsity
• 29 The Snake
• 30 Roof of All Evil
• 31 Slime Line
• 32 Firing Line
• 33 Psychosis
• 34 Microwave
• 35 Creaking Wall
• 36 Blinded by Rainbows
• 37 Forget Bullet
• 38 Rattlesnake
• 39 Freedom Flight
• 40 Project
• 41 Remembering Youth
• 42 Sound System
• 43 Pillar
• 44 Autumn Flare
• 45 Katrina
• 46 Deuteronomy
• 47 Superstition Traverse
• 48 Spooks
• 49 The Howling
• 50 Salad Days
• 51 Climb Control To Major Bob
• 52 Pentecostal
• 53 Project
• 54 Verdon
• 55 Homecoming
• 56 Ukiah
• 57 Raindance
• 58 Libido
• 59 Snake Slide
• 60 Scorpion
• 63 Summer Break
• 64 Wild Blue
• 65 God’s Grace
• 66 Home Run Derby
• 67 Karmic Kickback
• 68 The FM
• 69 Nose Traverse
• 70 Sky Traverse
• 71 Silver Streak
• 72 Spectacular Rising Traverse
• 73 The Body Snatcher
• 75 The Snatch
• 76 Knights in Armor

77 Great Dihedral

Click here for more information about falcons and route closures.