‘Guidebooks’ Category

Northern Forest Canoe Trail guidebook

Posted on: November 4th, 2011 No Comments

The Northern Forest Canoe Trail is a paradox. It’s been around forever, but it was “completed” just four years ago. Whatever, we’re glad it exists.

The NFCT is a 740-mile water trail that follows Native American paddling routes. It starts in Old Forge and ends in northern Maine, after passing through Vermont, Quebec, and New Hampshire. This includes sixty-two carries, totaling fifty-miles. You can paddle it in the other direction, but it will require more portaging.

The nonprofit Northern Forest Canoe Trail Inc. has done a great job of promotion. Over the past ten years, the group has put up kiosks in various towns along the route, organized paddling film festivals and volunteer projects, and published two books about the trail as well as a series of thirteen full-color maps.

Northern Forest Canoe Trail guidebook

The Northern Forest Canoe Trail guidebook sells for $24.95.

And now they’ve teamed up with The Mountaineers Books to publish The Northern Forest Canoe Trail: The Official Guidebook. For those doing the whole trail, the book is essential. But day-trippers also will find the book useful. After all, you don’t have to paddle the whole thing to enjoy the NFCT. You can cherry-pick the best sections.

The book breaks down the trail into thirteen sections, each one covered by one of the NFCT maps. The book and maps are made to work in tandem: route descriptions often refer to numbered landmarks on the maps. You’ll have to purchase the maps separately ($9.95 each). The book has some overview maps, but they aren’t useful for paddling.

The 147-mile Adirondack leg of the NFCT has three sections (and thus three maps): Fulton Chain of Lakes to Long Lake, Long Lake to Saranac River, and Saranac River to Lake Champlain. From Old Forge to Saranac Lake village, the trail more or less follows the route of the Adirondack Canoe Classic, an annual ninety-mile race that takes place over three days.

Most of the Adirondack portion of the trail is flatwater that can be enjoyed by novice paddlers. The Saranac River, however, contains numerous rapids on its way to Lake Champlain. Nevertheless, the river also has long, quiet stretches that should appeal to flatwater specialists. One of the virtues of this book is that it brings to our attention the many paddling possibilities on the Saranac.

Throughout, the route descriptions are detailed and well-written, with precise mileage between landmarks, directions to put-ins and takeouts, camping information, and numerous historical asides. There is a gallery of twenty-five color photos in the center of the book and black-and-white photos elsewhere.

One of the fifty or so paddlers who have done the entire NFCT in a continuous journey is Mike Lynch, an outdoors reporter for the Adirondack Daily Enterprise. You can read my interview with Mike on Adirondack Almanack.

Review of ‘The Other 54′

Posted on: November 4th, 2011 1 Comment

What’s a mountain climber to do once he or she has summited the Adirondack Forty-Six, the Catskill Thirty-Five, and the Northeast 115? Create a new list, of course.

And so we have the Adirondack Hundred Highest—the obsession of hard-core hikers who don’t mind surrendering a few pints of blood in their quest to stand atop the region’s tallest mountains.

The Hundred Highest includes the forty-six High Peaks first climbed by Bob and George Marshall and their guide, Herb Clark, in the first quarter of the last century. All of these peaks now have marked trails or obvious herd paths, so climbing them is not as difficult as it was in the Marshalls’ day.

The Other 54 by Spencer Morrissey

'The Other 54' sells for $18.95.

Not so with most of the other fifty-four of the Hundred Highest. Thirty-nine of these peaks lack trails. Climbing them entails bushwhacking up streambeds, scrambling over or under fallen trees, and pushing through phalanxes of spruce that guard the summits. Those who undertake such a trek can expect to be poked, scratched, bruised, and bitten. It’s not for inexperienced hikers.

In 2007, Spencer Morrissey wrote a guidebook titled The Other 54 for adventurous souls aspiring to join the Hundred Highest club. He estimates that only forty or so people have done all the peaks. Those who qualify can request a patch from the Hundred Highest website.

Morrissey sold all 2,500 copies of the first edition of The Other 54 and has just come out with a second edition, which he published under his Inca-pah-cho Wilderness Guides imprint (the name derives from the Algonquin name for Long Lake, Morrissey’s hometown). It remains the only guidebook available to bushwhacking the pathless peaks.

The second edition updates trail conditions, describes several additional routes, and corrects many misspellings and grammatical errors (full disclosure: my son was the copy editor). In an improvement over the first edition, Morrissey arranges the chapters (one per peak) geographically rather than by the heights of the summits. This makes it easier to plan multi-peak treks. He could have made things even easier, though, by dividing the book into regions and including locater maps.

Most chapters include at least one black-and-white photograph. All include a topographical map showing the various routes to the summit. In the first edition, all the maps were grouped in a color gallery at the back of the book. The current layout is more convenient, but the tradeoff is the maps are black and white. 

One odd feature is that Morrissey repeats directions unnecessarily. In the chapter on Lost Pond Peak, for instance, he describes four routes to the summit, all starting on the same trail at Adirondak Loj. Instead of providing the driving directions once, he repeats them at the start of each route description. Likewise, sections of the route descriptions are repeated. It’s like déjà vu all over again.

Given the author’s enthusiasm and sense of humor, it’s easy to forgive the book’s shortcomings. Besides, whatever its flaws, The Other 54 is essential equipment for Hundred Highest aspirants.

A more serious criticism (whether justified or not) is that the book will lead to environmental degradation on summits that are now pristine, just as the Forty-Sixer craze led to the creation of herd paths.

“You simply can’t have thousands of people doing this, or even hundreds, and hope to maintain the resource or wilderness qualities of this place,” says Jim Close, an avid hiker who has climbed the Hundred Highest himself.

Since the Marshalls, more than seven thousand people have climbed the Forty-Six. They were rewarded with grand vistas on most of the summits. One wonders how many of these hikers would have wanted to endure an arduous bushwhack up Sawtooth No. 5 for a glimpse of the horizon through the trees.

Review of ‘Hiking the Adirondacks’

Posted on: November 4th, 2011 No Comments

You might think the Adirondack bookshelf already has enough hiking guidebooks, but there’s always room for one more if it’s well done. And the latest one is.

Falcon Guides has just published Hiking the Adirondacks ($18.95) by Lisa Densmore, a freelance writer and nature photographer. It describes forty-two hikes, chosen from all parts of the Adirondack Park.

"Hiking the Adirondacks" by Lisa Densmore

Lisa Densmore's "Hiking the Adirondacks"

Densmore is more than qualified to offer advice: she grew up in Saranac Lake and has been hiking in the Adirondacks since she was a young girl. Although she now lives in New Hampshire, she has a summer camp on Chateaugay Lake in the northeastern corner of the Park.

The book carves up the Park into six regions—the same six delineated in the series of guidebooks published by the Adirondack Mountain Club. In a smart move, Densmore subdivides the High Peaks region into two chapters, one for peaks above four thousand feet, the other for smaller peaks.

She includes hikes to eleven of the forty-six High Peaks. No doubt people will quibble about her choices. For example, she offers separate chapters on Algonquin and Wright, two neighboring peaks that share the same approach. It would have made more sense to combine them into a single chapter (or drop Wright altogether) and add a chapter on Nippletop or Dix.
But this is a minor cavil. Overall, Densmore did a superb job in selecting hikes that are sure to appeal to the general hiker. Some of my favorite mountains are in this book: Catamount and Lyon in the northern Adirondacks, Nun-da-ga-o Ridge in Keene, Tongue and Buck near Lake George, Crane in the southern Adirondacks, Vanderwhacker in the central Adirondacks, and Black Bear near Inlet. Not to mention little Baker Mountain in Saranac Lake, which I often climb on my lunch hour.

This is not a book for people who prefer flat hikes. With two or three exceptions, all of the hikes lead to summits or lookouts. However, the climbing varies greatly in difficulty. Kane Mountain, for example, entails an elevation gain of just 535 feet.
Densmore’s professionalism is evident in both her writing and photography (it’s a shame the inside shots are black and white). I had the opportunity to watch her at work when I tagged along on two of her hikes: the loop over Nun-da-ga-o Ridge and the traverse of Pitchoff Mountain. I can attest that she is a meticulous note taker and observant photographer. Readers will enjoy the fruits of her labor.

Densmore also has published a slimmer book titled Best Easy Day Hikes: Adirondacks with chapters on twenty-two of the hikes that appear in the larger book. Most of these hikes are under four miles. The chapters have been shortened, the photos omitted, and the price reduced ($9.995). The book is small enough to easily fit into a pack.

Skier’s Backcountry Bible

Posted on: November 3rd, 2011 No Comments

In 1987, David Goodman got a dream job for a ski bum trying to survive as a freelance writer: the Appalachian Mountain Club hired him to write a guidebook for backcountry skiing in New England.

The following year the club published Classic Backcountry Skiing: A Guide to the Best Ski Tours in New England. Unlike most ski-touring guidebooks, this one focused on down-mountain runs rather than rolling terrain, and it came out just as telemark skiing was enjoying a rebirth.

Goodman later expanded his horizons westward, and in 1999, AMC split the book into two volumes, one covering New Hampshire and Maine, the other covering Vermont and New York.

In 2010, Goodman again combined his offerings into one volume, Best Backcountry Skiing in the Northeast ($19.95). This is a good idea. For one thing, it avoids the necessity of twice printing the lengthy introductory section, which covers such topics as the history of backcountry skiing in the Northeast; clothing and ski equipment; and mountaineering skills. For another, I think a backcountry skier in the Adirondacks would want to know what New Hampshire has to offer and vice versa.

The book describes fifty trips, with good maps and black-and-white photos. For Adirondack skiers, not much has changed. Goodman once again includes chapters on Mount Marcy, the Wright Peak Ski Trail, Avalanche Pass and Lake Colden, the Jackrabbit Trail, and Johns Brook Valley/Camp Peggy O’Brien. Marcy, Wright, Avalanche Pass, and the Jackrabbit are all classic ski tours, but Goodman reserves his highest praise for the descent of the state’s highest summit: “If you are looking for the best trail skiing in North America, look no further than Mount Marcy.”

The Johns Brook Valley chapter describes three trips that can be taken from Camp Peggy O’Brien, a hut owned by the Adirondack Mountain Club: Klondike Notch, some low-angle slides near Gothics Mountain, and Bennies Brook Slide on Lower Wolf Jaw Mountain. Bennies Brook Slide is a new addition, replacing a description of ski glades on Big Slide Mountain. This is the only change in the New York State section of the book. (The Bennies slide has since been lengthened by Tropical Storm Irene.)

The Marcy, Avalanche Pass, and Jackrabbit trips also can be found in Ski and Snowshoe Trails in the Adirondacks, written by Tony Goodwin and published by the Adirondack Mountain Club. Goodwin’s book covers the whole Adirondack Park, but it focuses more on traditional ski touring and sticks to official trails. His is the book to get if you prefer novice or intermediate terrain.

Most of Goodman’s trips, in contrast, entail a significant climb and descent, and he often leads skiers off piste. Examples of the more extreme terrain are the Gulf of Slides and Tuckerman Ravine on Mount Washington, the gullies on Mount Katahdin, and of course Mount Marcy. Goodman does offer some tours of moderate difficulty, but his book is definitely aimed at advanced-intermediate and expert skiers. If you’re in search of downhill thrills in the backcountry, there is no better guide to the Northeast.

 

May 2012
M T W T F S S
« Dec    
 123456
78910111213
14151617181920
21222324252627
28293031